Wednesday, May 15, 2019

14 May - Los Arcos to Logrono (28 km)

Today was  a beautiful late spring day, not a cloud in the sky, very little wind, temperatures in the eighties by mid afternoon.   Perfect for a long hike of some 25 kilometers.

We spent most of the day on natural paths though field of wheat, vineyards, and rocky hillsides.  This was a long stage with some short but very steep climbs and descents, but the path was smooth for easy hiking.  We passed through 3 small Spanish villages on the way to Logrono, which is a busy city and the capital of the Rioja region, famous for those great Spanish Red wines.   We had superior 4-sar lodging in Logrono in Hotel Calle Mayor and a very authentic dinner of Bocadillo Tapas (small sandwiches) in a small Tapas bar filled local Spaniards and their children.    Food is relatively inexpensive in this part of Spain so many of locals take their families to the inexpensive cafe's.  This was our second longest day at 25 km, so we adjourned early for a good nights sleep.  We took lots of pictures.  Here are some of the shots of the day.






Departing our hotel La Torrien de Ana,  a 17th Century large Spanish home recently converted into a B&B.   Saying good bye to our wonderful hosts, Carolina and Naomi, who drove us back to the Camino to start our days trek.



We arrive at the  small town of Sansol, Population of 10 a beautiful little hill town.   


Next we approach the town of Torres del Rio, just across the small River Linares.   





We cross the bridge over the River Linares and enter the town.



This town has a population of 150 with two churches and several restaurants and bars that support the local population and the many Pilgrims that pass thru.


We pass the first Church, the Iglesia de Santo Sepulcrea, which is an 8-sided church linked to the Knights Templar.   Pilgrims are invited in offer songs of prayer in the fine acoustics of the church.


We continue on through Torres del Rio without stopping as it is still early in the morning.




We come upon a lone almond tree along the Camino, with new almond fruit (nuts) forming on the branches.   These will not be ready for harvest until the early fall.


Judi passing through the town of Bargota with the Church tower in the backdrop





We pass a small stand barley,  with almond tree.... multiple shades of green.



Many wheat fields in this remote section of the Camino.   Multiple shades of green.


Chris has lots of energy today, smiling as she passes.


We begin to climb the first of several hills as we approach Viana.


We pause for a short break.





At the top of the hill, we find a large arrangement of Pilgrim shrines, rock piles that honor this section of the Camino.


Here is an almond orchard with orderly rows of trees decorating the hillside.


We pass a fellow Pilgrim walking her tiny dog.   Chris and Judi sharing a little love with  this happy little traveller.



Our New Zealand friends, Graham and Lynda pass us on the way to Viana.  This is the third time they have passed us in the last few days.


















Large vineyards and almond orchards signal our approach to Viana.



Lisa stops for a quick pictdure.






More vineyards and old ruins.


We stop for a needed break and some shade.   We've had two long climbs in 80 degree heat.


Finally we see the old Roman City of Viana, the last stop before Logrono.


Viana is a lively little town with a population of 4,000.   As we enter, we see large apartments buildings outside the old city.



The Camino passes through its historical center which is little changed since medievel pilgrims  plodded through its ancient streets.   Back in the 15th Century, Viana was a major Pilgrim stop with 4 major Pilgrim Hospitales.   





We pass the Viana Iglesia of Santa Maria (the cathedral)And the large Plaza Mercado.




We stop for lunch on the main Camino route (see the tables on the right).


After lunch, we are on the final leg to Logrono.   Lisa, Jon Lynn, Judi stop in the heat for a quick pic.


The rioja grapes to the right signoal our entry into this Rioja region of Spain for which Logrono is the capital.


Judi and Chris stop for a pic with Logrono in the back drop.


Beautiful roses as we near Logrono.



And houses decorated with flowers.








Finally, the bridge over the Rio Ebro signals our entrance into Logrono. Jon Lynn snaps a few pics.






We are tired and ready for Logrono.   Judi and Lisa happy to be here.






We quickly find our hotel, the 4-star Calle Mayor (Main Street)




We head into the air conditioning and check in for the evening.  Judi and all happy to finish today's long trek.



We have dinner in a local tapas place know for Bocadilletto Tapas (small sandwiches).   The meal was satisfying and inexpensive, which explains why so many local Spanish families were there for dinner.  We finished the evening with a walk around Logrono before retiring early for tomorrow's wine tour in the nearby town of Breones.
We close today with a personal reflection of a fellow Pilgrim:   The deepening lines on her aging face cannot hide her welcoming smile.   Her name means happiness and she has welcomed pilgrims for decades giving her blessing and stamping credenciales.    Some see her unofficial presence an intrusion, preferring to hurry by to avoid interaction.   I sit beside her and observe myself judging them as they are judging her.   A whole Order was condemned to die by those fearing a loss of control and wanting an exclusive right to bless.   I realize in this moment that no one needs permission to offer love.   We all have the right to bestow blessings - perhaps it is our beholden duty....
And so with Love, we wish you, Buen Camino!

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