Friday, May 10, 2019

8 May - Roncevalles to Zubiri

We awake to a cloudy, rainy day.   Time to get out the rain gear.   We are up at 0630.   Pilgrims are already departing in long lines.  Lying at an altitude of 950m, Roncevalles has a resident population on only 30 people.   There are many volunteers at the hostel which come from all over Europe for  a two week period and support the Pilgrim population with hotel and meal service.  There are 217 beds in the hostel with overflow in several of the adjacent apartments.   On any given day, there may be 300 or more Pilgrims

Today our hike to Zubiri was the longest so far.   While it was advertised as 26km, it seemed much longer.  We were able to navigate portions of the trail that were steep and rocky and we were well equipped for the intermittent rain.   We learned today that the rain and sun are both welcome (though we like the sun a little better).   We arrived in Zubiri in the late afternoon.   Lisa and I both recorded over 43,000 steps on our fitbits, which seemed a lot more than the 30,000 we expected.
Our lodging for the evening was at Hotel Akereta, some 6 km further down the Camino from our stopping point at Zubiri.  We took lots of pics today.   Here are some highlights:








After breakfast, we are ready to leave our lodging at Casa Beneficiados in Roncevalles.   Our rooms were spacious, almost luxurious.   For us this was far better than staying the hostel in open bunks.  We are dressed for a cold and rainy day.



Lisa in front of the hostel and Church Iglesia Santa Maria as we depart for Zubiri.

Judi and Chris are not far behind.   Note the storm clouds in the background.





This is the Camino Path as it leads away from Roncevalles.   Sheep graze on the field, not bothered by the rain or by the passing Pilgrims.


Here we are at the road sign for Santiago, 790 km (about 500 miles).   Pilgrims take between 30-40 days to cover the entire route.   Our destination is Burgos, roughly 150 miles from here.


Chris and Lisa share a moment.   The rain is actually very cooling.


We stop for a sign about the writer Ernest Hemingway.  He used to stay in this village of Burguete and his signature is on the hotel piano.   He remains popular in Spain for his novels and his love of the Spanish culture and bull fights.   


The Church of St Nicholas overshadows the town square in Burguete.   St Nicholas is often associated with the Camino and considered to be the "protector of pilgrims"


The Camino is the main street through this small town.  Note the gutter full of running water draining the streets and used for irrigation at the foot of the village.



We ford the creek on the local Camino Bridge










Here is a stanchion Carolan Cows prior to milking and a lonely bull next door, separated from the cows.







Another water crossing.   Judi and I remember this little bridge from our 2016 trip.










Here is a newborn foal in a field of mares.  It doesn't take him long to find Mama.




Pilgrims ahead of us have stacked small pebbles on the Camino markers. We continue our trek toward Zubiri.   The trail is muddy and rocky.


We stop at an old ruin for a picture.   It's mid-afternoon and we have another hour to go.








Finally we enter Zubiri.   Fellow pilgrims greet us from the river.   We are invited for swim.







Our final picture of the day is at the Camino Bar in Zubiri where we are waiting for a car to pick us up for our lodging some 6 km further down the trail.   The Red wine here is was a memorable Tempranilla.  We are booked in a famous old hotel (Hotel Akereta), a 375 year old Spanish mansion that was used to house the film crew for the movie The Way.

Our Beatitude for the day:  Blessed are you pilgrim, if you discover that the "camino" opens your eyes to what is not seen.  So true today.   More tomorrow.   For now Buen Camino!

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