May 7th - Happy Birthday Judi!
Today was a long uphill journey crossing the Pyrannees, a mountain chain on the border between France and Spain. While the Pyrenees are not particularly high they can be treacherous, especially in bad weather. We were cautioned of the dangers of weather as these mountains have claimed more than a few lives. The most popular movie about the Camino, The Way with Martin Sheen, illustrates these dangers as his son was caught in severe storm near the peak at Ibaneta pass.
When we left St John Pied yesterday, we a choice of two routes over the Pyrennees. The Val Carlos route or the Napoleon route. The more difficult is one followed by Napoleon as his army returned to France. This route follows the high mountain roads and trails and was popularized as a way to bypass the banditry all to common in the valley below. When skies are clear, this route offers beautiful views and sweeping landscapes. During times of poor weather, this route is closed.
The Valcarlos Route follows close to the roads in the valley and passes thru several towns that provide support to Pilgrims. This route is the route Charlemagne followed as his army retreated from Spain into France. It is a little longer than the Napoleon route. It is still beautiful and often the choice of Pilgrims desiring a more comfortable climb. Both routes must ascend to Ibaneta pass for the steep downhill into Roncevalles.
So we chose the Val Carlos route and that made all the difference. The weather was sunny, the climb was steep, and yet we made it into Roncevalles at 4 pm.
The very first thing this morning was Judi's Birthday, May 7th.
Judi arises to colorful Happy Birthday wishes from all. Here is Jon Lynn and Lisa with Judi.
After breakfast, we depart for today's hike of 15 kilometers (9 miles) to Ibaneta pass and then downhill into Roncevalles. Everyone is feeling good. Judi and Mike pose for Birthday picture. Do we look a little nervous about today's big climb?
We follow the rode out of Val Carlos, past the church and the pilgrim statue.
And soon are on the trail toward the summit
Judi amid the wild flowers
The path begins to climb
Footbridge crossing a stream
Lisa and Jon Lynn taking a needed break
The path gets steeper. Now taking frequent breaks.
Are we near the top yet?
Finally we arrive at the top of Ibanita pass. What a long climb.
Mike and Judi at the top of the pass.
The statue of Roland at Ibaneta Pass. Roland was one of Charlemagne's beloved general killed by the Pamplonian pursuers while guarding the rear of Charlemagne's army in the 11th century.
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At the Pilgrim's church at Ibaneta Pass (1429 meters). This was formerly a hospice for weary pilgrims built in 1127 and later to Roncevalles.
The descent into Roncevalles is much easier. Chris holding the gate.
Our first view of the Church of St Mary Real at Roncevalles.
We enter the large courtyard of the Church enroute to our lodging
We arrive at our lodging at Casa Benificiaos (left side), part of an old monastery and pilgrims hostel that date back to the 11th Century. The spire is part of the Church of St Mary Real.
Chris with the volunteer staff at the Hostel Collegiata, a large hostel with 217 beds) all filled tonight. The volunteer's from the hostel come from all over the world for a 2 week volunteer period. They were most helpful.
We celebrate Judi's Birthday at the hotel dining room. The entire dining room joined in for a joyous Happy Birthday.
Today was a long climb. Here is a Beautitude of the Pilgrims we thought appropriate for this day of thankfulness. Blessed are you Pilgrim, when you don't have words to give thanks for everything that surprises you at every twist and turn along the way.
Tomorrow we head from Roncevalles to Zubiri. It is a longer day (22 km). For now Buen Camino!
All down hill now
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